Rob, it does sound like you're at a very good weight for your height. Official website of the International Federation of Sport Climbing. 9a the hardest route of the Australian continent and the hardest boulder problem Australian continent Wheelchair. Versuch, zweite Wiederholung seit 17 Jahren, Basler Jura, Schweiz, 2017: September, „Coup de Grace“, (9a), 3. With his father, he climbed multi-pitch routes up to 300 m at the age of ten. Megos also has a background in the La Sportiva Legends competitions, where he has competed multiple times and placed 2nd and 3rd. Alexander Megos (born 12 August 1993) is a German rock climber. Mai 2018 sicherte er sich die Erstbegehung der Route "Perfecto Mundo" in Margalef (Spanien), einer von Chris Sharma eingebohrten und über längere Zeit projektierten Linie, die Megos in den Tagen vor seiner Begehung mehrere Male zusammen mit Sharma versucht hatte und bewertete sie mit 9b+ (franz.). look at Alex Megos, skinny little legs, light (57 kilos or something) but full of muscle with MASSIVE pecs too; I've never seen a climber with such large pecs. 377. In 2007 Megos got his first 8a (5.13b), in 2009 he climbed his first 8c (5.14b) with "Drive by shooting" and in 2011 his first 9a (5.14d) with "San Ku Kai". September, „The last Dance“ 11-/11 (8c+), Frankenjura, Deutschland (mehrere Haken der Route wurden wenige Tage später von Michael Ordnung wieder entfernt), 2013: März, „Estado critico“ (9a), weltweit 1. Megos started climbing at the age of six. You can use what you have to your advantage. [9], In June 2014, Alexander Megos together with Roger Schäli, did the first ascent of the 20-pitch route "FLY" 8c (5.14b) in Staldeflue (Switzerland), which is one of the hardest big-wall climbing routes in the world. On May 9, 2018, he secured the first ascent of the route "Perfecto Mundo" in Margalef (Spain), a long-attempted line bolted by Chris Sharma. Megos begann im Alter von sechs Jahren mit dem Klettersport. With Adam Ondra’s incredible ascent of Silence, the world’s first 5.15d or 9c, still fresh in the news, speculation has already started as to when another climber will achieve this level. [9], Am 1. Absolutely the number one starting point for any profile. The route climbs the Balme Wall, an impressive limestone face capped at half-height by a blank, horizontal roof. and Switzerland’s 8c route FLY. Weight: 57 kg; Height: 173 cm; Arm span: 173 ; Added hang load (one arm, 7 sec, 20 mm edge): 18 kg ; Hangboard training mode: Probably Mode 1; Pull-ups module: OFF; Calculated average bouldering grade result: V17 (9A) Reported maximum bouldering grade result: V15/V16 (8C/8C+) Alex never did a 9A, but he is so strong that I guess he should be able to do it. Megos and Sharma had tried it together several times in the days before his visit and graded it 9b+ (5.15c). We saw Alex achieving an almost superhuman 132% of body weight carried on our test edge and our best information on Adam is that he’s pulling 112% of body weight (although this was from a previous study a number of years back – Balas et al). However, of all Alex’s achievements in 2014 it was his one-day/third attempt ascent of Biographie/Realization (widely considered the world’s first 9a+) at Céüse that really turned heads. This is the official Facebook page of rock climber Alexander Megos. Megos startet für die Sektion Erlangen des Deutschen Alpenvereins. Am 5. With his father, he climbed multi-pitch routes up to 300 m at the age of ten. How hard can the forearm muscle contract and how does that relate to body weight. an der Staldeflue (Schweiz) erstbegehen, die zu den schwersten Bigwall-Kletterrouten der Welt gezählt werden kann. The available data also does not cover 2018. [8] In addition, he secured the only one-day tour of the top route "Biography / Realization" (9a+ (5.15a)) in Ceüse, France. Platz), 2013: April, „Classified“ 11 (9a), 4. [5], After graduation in 2012, he focused on rock climbing. Moreover, by reaching the finals of the combined event of the World Championships, he secured a qualification spot for Tokyo's 2020 Summer Olympics. From the year 2006 on, Megos trained in the national base "Franconia" of the climbing association Bavaria and later at the Federal Base sports climbing in Erlangen, Nuremberg. ), Flash, Lake Louise, Kanada, 2016: Oktober, „Becoming“ 11/11+ (9a+), 1. Alex Megos and his beautiful girlfriend (chuks on - still strong!) [16], In August 2020 Megos sent his long term project "Bibliographie" 9c (5.15d) in Céüse after working on it for 60 days. 60 Tagen projektieren und spezifischem Training die 2009 von Ethan Pringle eingebohrte Route "Bibliographie" im französischen Klettergebiet Céüse, für die er den Schwierigkeitsgrad 9c vorschlägt. Platz, 2019: Weltcup Lead Chamonix (Frankreich) 2. Im Mai 2020 gelang Megos mit dem Boulder "Upgrade U" 8C, der härteste Boulder seines Heimatgebietes, der Fränkischen Schweiz. im deutschsprachigen Raum.[10]. Wiederholung, Frankenjura, Deutschland, 2020: April, Half Life (Fb 8C), 1. Alex Megos' Single Best Training Tip | EpicTV Climbing Daily, Ep. ), 2011 mit „San Ku Kai“ seine erste 9a (franz.). Find events calendar, all past and future results, rankings, IFSC news, photos, videos. In 2007 Megos got his first 8a (5.13b), in 2009 he climbed his first 8c(5.14b) with "Drive by shooting" and in 2011 … Platz, 2019: Weltmeisterschaft Hachioji (Japan) Lead Vizeweltmeister (2. The ultra classic "Era Vella" - went down yesterday on my second try. Hey, no problem - height is 173cm, weight is 57kg, ape is 0! Megos has won many international competitions. [5], Alexander Megos ist bekannt für extrem schnelle Wiederholungen von schweren Felskletterrouten. Begehung (innerhalb von 2 Stunden), Japan, 2015: März, Double Demerit (Fb 8B+), 1. [8], Im Juni 2014 konnte Alexander Megos zusammen mit Roger Schäli die 20-Seillängen-Route „FLY“ 8c (franz.) Also my best wishes to Chris and Stefano - Hope they will tick it soon! Zum Vergleich: Alex Megos kletterte auch schon 9a «onsight» - also auf Anhieb, ohne einstudieren und sich die Route erklären zu lassen. Begehung, Buttermilks, Kalifornien, USA, 2015: März, Orochi (Fb 8C), 3. [7] Darüber hinaus sicherte er sich die bisher einzige Ein-Tages-Begehung der Top-Route "Biographie/Realization" (9a+) in Ceüse, Frankreich. stp:. Chris Sharma und Alex Megos beim Diskutieren der Route Perfecto Mundo. Alexander Megos (* 12. 2007 gelang Megos seine erste 8a (franz. bzw. Wiederholung, Australien, 2016: Oktober, Trainspotting (Fb 8B+), Erstbegehung, Göteborg, Schweden, 2017: Juli, Monkey Wedding (Fb 8C), Rocklands, Südafrika, 2017: Juli, Finnish Line (Fb 8C), Rocklands, Südafrika, 2019: November, Power Animal sit start (Fb 8B+), Erstbegehung, Buttermilks, Kalifornien, USA, 2019: Dezember, Bongo (Fb 8C), 3. Ihm geht es um Hochleistungssport, nicht um Show. In August 2013, Megos climbed R.E.D. From mid-April to mid-June of 2014, he did 9 routes of which the grades ranged from 9a+ (5.15a) to 8c+ (5.14c) in his home climbing area, the Franconian Switzerland, including "Modified" 9a+ (5.15a), one of the hardest routes in the Franconian Switzerland. Er gewann zwei (Jugend-)Europameistertitel (2009 und 2010) und einen (Jugend-)Vizeweltmeistertitel im Jahr 2011. Reach vs weight is a bit of a trade off. August 2020 kletterte er nach ca. [4] Im August 2013 kletterte Megos mit R.E.D. A lot of climbers believe height can be an advantage. The crux pitch through the roof has never been free climbed before, but is estimated to weigh in around 8c/5.14b. Bei unserem Ausflug nach Céūse, einem der anspruchsvollsten und beeindruckendsten Klettergebiete im Sportkletterbereich, haben Ben und ich Alex Megos getroffen. Then again, when you can knock out 9a+ on your second attempt, why bother with anything harder? [10], On October 1, 2015, he climbed the route "Supernova" in Franconian Switzerland and by doing so he probably established the first route in grade 11+ (UIAA) (9a + / 9b French) in German-speaking countries. Versuch, Margalef, Spanien, 2015: Dezember, „First round first minute“ (9b), 3. Alexander Megos is known for being a Rock Climber. (9b), Canmore, Kanada, 2016: Oktober, „Super crackinette“ (9a+), Saint-Léger du Ventoux, Frankreich, 2017: März, „Pasito a Pasito“ (9a), Valle de los Condores, Chile, 2017: Juni, „Clash of the titans“, (9a+), Nassereith, Österreich, 2018: Mai, „Perfecto Mundo“, (9b+), Margalef, Spanien, 2019: November, „Zoolander“, (9a), Red River Gorge, USA, 2020: Juni, „Pornographie“, (9a), Ceüse, Frankreich, 2020: 5. Platz, 2018: Weltcup Lead Briancon (Frankreich) 1. He has climbed multiple notable hard routes and boulder problems, including one 9c (5.15d) route (Bibliographie), one 9b+ (5.15c) route (Perfecto Mundo), two 9b (5.15b) routes (First Round, First Minute and Fight Club), and some boulder problems with a confirmed 8C (V15) rating. In March 2014, Alex Megos was over in the UK to take part in the Climbing Works International Festival (CWIF) comp at Sheffield and stayed on afterwards for a few days to climb mainly at Raven Tor and Malham, ticking crag classics that included Unjustified (8c), Bat Route (8c), Mecca (8b+) as well as having a quick go at Hubble (8c+). Alex Megos, a 23-year-old from Nuremberg, broke onto the scene in early 2013 at the tender age of 19 when he onsighted Estado Critico, a 5.14d in Siurana, Spain, “by accident.” It was the first 9a onsight in history and suddenly, Germany—and the world—had a new climbing hero. You would think being 11 years old I would have a lot more to grow, but somehow I don’t think that is going to happen. [1] Dieser wurde von Patrick Matros und Ludwig „Dicki“ Korb betreut, die Megos bis heute trainieren und coachen. It should be remembered that the 8a.nu data is user based and therefore incomplete. This one…, https://www.redbull.com/int-en/alexander-megos-switzerland-10-hardest-climbs-in-six-days, http://escalade9.wifeo.com/coup-de-grace.php, "World's First 9a Onsight? Versuch, Rumney, USA, 2017: Oktober, „Capricorn“, (8c+), Flash, Leonidio, Griechenland, 2020: Juli, „Heiliger Gral“, (9a), 2. Alex Megos has climbed his long-term project at Ceuse after reportedly spending at least 50 days on the route. 97 Personen sprechen darüber. Seit 2006 nimmt Alexander Megos aktiv an Kletterwettkämpfen teil. His send of the route "First Round First Minute" in December 2015 was his first of grade 9b (5.15b). und 8 Routen im Grad 8c+ (franz. Interview with Alex Megos about mental strength During our trip to Céüse, one of the most impressive and challenging sport-climbing crags in the world, Ben and I bumped into Alex Megos. and he still considers himself to have weak finger… In one study from 2018, published in the Brazilian Journal of Kinanthropometry and Human Performance, researchers examined climbers—measuring their body fat, BMI, ape index and leg span, plus fitness levels with tests like balance, grip strength, jump height, pullups, and bent-arm hangs to see which parameters could determine climbing ability. Onsight, Siurana, Spanien, 2013: Mai, „Corona“ 11/11+ (9a+), Frankenjura, Deutschland, 2015: Oktober, „Solitary Man“ (8c), Onsight (erstes Onsight einer 8c-Route in der Fränkischen Schweiz), Deutschland, 2015: November, „Demencia senil“ (9a+), 3. Versuch, Ceüse, Frankreich, 2017: August, „Speed Intégrale“, (9a), Voralpsee, Schweiz, 2017: August, „Im Reich des Shogun“, (9a), 3. Megos started climbing at the age of six. - Rock Climbing & Bouldering Articles", "Alex Megos Establishes 5.15a Link-Up in Australia's Grampians", "Watch Alex Megos Make the First Ascent of Upgrade U (V15)", "Daniel Woods sends Finnish line says v15", "Alex Megos Makes Fast Work Of 'Double Demerit' (V14/8B+) | EpicTV", "Videos: Alex Megos Climbing in Ceuse and Rocklands - Rock Climbing & Bouldering Articles", "Instagram photo by Alexander Megos • Oct 30, 2016 at 5:46pm UTC", Alexander Megos athlete profile at redbull.com, "Megos climbs modified 5.15a in Frankenjura", "Megos sends Action Directe 5.14d in two hours", "Megos climbing in Ceuse and Rocklands (Videos)", "Megos sends First Round First Minute 5.15b and more", "Megos establishes 5.15a link up in Australia's Grampians", "Megos repeats Thor's Hammer 5.15a Flatanger Cave", "Megos makes fast work double demerit V14/8b", https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Alex_Megos&oldid=993707124, Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License, Bibliographie - August 5, 2020 - First Ascent, This page was last edited on 12 December 2020, at 01:45. 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Megos begann im Alter von Jahren! Scariest looking Boulder problems we ’ ve ever seen er war 2017 Vizeeuropameister im Bouldern und gewann 21., Frankenjura, bamberg nach Céūse, einem der anspruchsvollsten und beeindruckendsten Klettergebiete im Sportkletterbereich, haben Ben ich. Megos established `` Upgrade U '' 8C, the hardest route of World!